|
Introduction
to the Tools of the Trade
It
all begins here, with the tools. The best advice I can give you
about tools is that it is always important to have the right tool
for the right job. Sometimes when certain tools are too expensive
or unavailable, improvisation may be necessary, but otherwise, it
is always better to try to obtain the best tools for the job - even
if they may cost a little more. Believe me, you'll save yourself
time and effort and probably finish with a job you are happier with.
Keep in mind
that there are a zillion tools out there and it's impossible to
cover them all, what you'll find here is an introduction the the
basic tools that I've found invaluable in my little projects.
|
1)
Hacksaw
Hacksaws are great for cutting aluminium. Since aluminium
is a relatively soft metal, it's pretty easy to saw (although
that doesn't mean it isn't hard work). There are some considerations
when you go shopping for a hacksaw. You will want to note
that most hacksaws will have limits to how far they can cut
into a piece of aluminium. The 'spine' of the saw often limits
how long a cut it can make. Keeping this in mind, you will
want to purchase a bigger saw if you intend to work on bigger
projects. I use a full-sized hacksaw for larger jobs and the
junior hacksaw for smaller projects.
The other
thing to keep in mind is the type of blade to purchase. For
thinner pieces of aluminium, you will want to buy a blade
that has finer (i.e. smaller) teeth. A general rule I learnt
from my metalwork classes in school is that you should try
to have at least 3 teeth in contact with the surface you intend
to cut.
Back To Top
|
Hacksaw
Junior Hacksaw
|
|
2)
"Spine-less" Hacksaw
The term is my own since I don't know what these are called.
These are saws that are essentially just handles which accommodate
hacksaw blades. As such, they do not have the limitations
of the 'spine'. Hence, these saws are capable of cutting as
deep into the aluminium as you want, but there is a payoff
(isn't there always?): that is that the absence of the 'spine'
results in less power and control of the blade. This means
slower cutting and more work. You also have to be careful
during the cutting because the blade can bend and even snap
if you get to enthusiastic with the saw. This has happened
to me before and it's dangerous… be sure to always wear
safety goggles when you work.
Back To Top
|
Spine-less Hacksaw |
|
3)
Safety Goggles
Not much needs to be said except this: WEAR THEM! They may
be a hassle when you work, but believe me, you won't be thinking
that way when they save your eyes from flying debri - and
believe me, there WILL be flying debri.
Back To Top
|
|
4)
Power Drill/ Drill Press
An essential part of customizing stuff is a drill. I started
with a dremel-type drill but it was a little too 'weak' for
me although I think the better models might suit most needs.
Since we work with scale models, the holes we usually need to
drill are no bigger than 3-4mm… but these are too big even
for some hobby drills. Make sure whatever drill you get is capable
of handling the holes you want to drill. Consider getting one
that can drill bigger holes too because that extra cost is still
cheaper than having to buy another drill down the road when
you need bigger holes. The biggest holes I've required so far
are 5/16 sized which accommodate the bearings on my cantilevers.
I currently
use a power drill from BOSCH used for most home-DIY work.
I also purchased a tabletop drill-press which can hold the
drill while I work. Drill-presses are great for drilling precision
holes that are perpendicular to the sheet of aluminium - this
is quite important for most custom work. If you ever purchase
a drill press, you may NOT want to go with my setup - because
I've found that these hybrid drill-presses just don't give
enough precision - the drill bit tends to wander from the
spot. Still, for most work, it's sufficient.
Back To Top
|
Drill Press |
|
5)
Metal Files
Files are great for finishing up your cutting edges on the
aluminium. I usually saw 1-2mm away from the edge of my parts
and then file off the rest. Get yourself a regular sized metal
file which will remove lots of material with each stroke.
The picture shows a straight edged file and a curved edge
one which are suitable for achieving straight and curved surfaces
respectively.
You may
also want to purchase a set of smaller hobby-sized files for
finer work. I have a small, cylindrical shaped file which
has been indispensible when it comes to enlarging/elongating
holes for that perfect fit.
Back To Top
|
Metal Files |
|
6)
Clamps/Vices
Another essential to custom work. These are necessary to hold
down your projects while you work on them. Vices are essentially
2 clamps in one - One clamp holds the vice to your workstation
(mine's just an old table) and the other will hold any work
securely for sawing, filing or even sanding - I use my vice
for bending the aluminium too (I will touch on this later).
There
are also 'C'-clamps (shown on the right) which come in different
sizes. Larger clamps can be used to clamp a project to a workstation
while you work on it. Smaller ones can be used to clamp several
pieces of aluminium together while you work on them. For example,
you can clamp all 4 cantilever pieces together while sawing,
filing and drilling through them - doing this has the main
advantage of producing multiples of the same part… they
also save you the trouble of sawing and filing 4 different
pieces of work altogether.
Back To Top
|
|
|
7)
Scribe and Dot Punch
A scribe is like the customizer's pen or pencil. It's like
a long metal rod with a sharp pointed end. It is used to 'scratch'
lines into the project to you know where to cut, drill or
bend.
The dot
punch resembles a short, fat pencil. A hammer is used to 'punch'
a depression to mark the places where holes are to be drilled.
'Punching' a hole helps to guide the drill-bit when drilling
the hole. This minimizes wandering - which simply refers to
the drill bit shifting out of position - when the drilling
takes place. Dot-punch your holes for best results.
Back To Top
|
Scribe & Punch |
|
8)
Mallet or Hammer
These are necessary when using the dot punch. They are also
helpful sometimes when bending the aluminium. To get a good
sharp bend, try a few good knocks with a mallet - I place
a soft towel over the bend and knock it with a hammer. For
thinner pieces of aluminium however, just using your hands
to bend them is not difficult - the clamps help to give a
nice straight bend.
Back To Top
|
Hammer |
|
9)
Rulers and Measuring Tools
These are necessary to make the markings for your work. A
good ruler helps to make measurements as accurate as possible.
I strongly recommend an aluminium/metal ruler as these are
durable enough when you need to use them with the scribe.
I also use a pair of calipers to help with measurements.
A nice
set-square is also helpful to mark lines at 90 degree angles.
Back To Top
|
Metal Ruler
Set
Square and Protractor
|
|
9)
Tap
There are various types of taps available (here you see one).
Taps are used to make threads in holes for screws to fit into.
When using taps, drill a hole slightly smaller than the screw
diameter (e.g. for a 3mm screw, you will be drilling a hole
approximately 2.5mm in diameter). Then tap the hole slowly,
backing off when necessary.
Back To Top
|
Tap
|
|
